Notes on... Purnell's


One egg is un oeuf, but two is waaaaay better at Purnell's, where the classics are classics for a reason. We could talk about at least five of the dishes we sampled in the Cornwall Street dining room, but we're going to focus entirely on two, which are as happy-making as they are accomplished.

Haddock, eggs and cornflakes sound like some pretty messed up breakfasting but in the hands of Glynn and co, is a perfectly balanced, texture-filled, de-light. The egg "white" is made by emulsifying the milk the haddock is poached in, with little haddock chunks to be found the deeper you delve. A haddock croquette also comes with the dish for dipping purposes — we defy you not to smile while using it. A seriously refined take on a dish Glynn's Mum used to make, the plate is finished with curry oil — a nod to Glynn's favourite source of Indian food, the Balti Triangle.

If you haven't previously got eyes on the second bit of egg-based brilliance from Purnell's, you must be both new to Birmingham and not own a TV. 10/10/10 is the score Glynn received for his burnt English Surprise from the judges on the Great British Menu, and having tried it before, we were sort of hoping to try something new. Oh how silly and foolish that hope was. Currently coming with a perfect combo of sweet, tart and bitter, the blackberries, honeycomb and thyme that accompany the brûlée-like concoction are both great to look at and the ideal foil to the sweet, creaminess of the faux-egg. Brum bucket list stuff.

Both dishes are available on the a la carte menu (£68). Or try the lunch menu (£39, Tuesday to Friday).